World-class truffles are a gourmet delight

September is truffle season

World-class truffles are a gourmet delight

Truffles rank with caviar and champagne objects of every gourmand's fantasies. They have the same allure: Part epicurean enjoyment, and partly just hard to find.

White and black truffles are actually fungus that grows underground. European truffles grow on the roots of oak trees, while Oregon truffles grow at the base of Douglas firs. In Europe, specially trained dogs help find the oak trees where truffles can be found. Once discovered, more truffles can be collected next year at the same site.

The aroma of truffles reflects their flavor. More intense and fragrant than mushrooms, truffles have a musky, earthy, savory flavor that could be compared to meat, broth, or fish. The flavor profile depends on season, variety, and quality. Black truffles often have a milder flavor, hold up well when heated and are typically used in sauces, butters and risottos.

To enjoy the wonder of truffles, select fresh uncooked specimens to be eaten shortly after harvest. Truffle lovers often pre-order before harvest from specialty food retailers. Black Oregon truffles cost about $70 per ounce.

Happily, many recipes require just a shaving of truffle. Scraping or grating fresh truffles into sauces or soups just before eating creates a distinctive flavor. Try freshly grated truffle in veal, chicken, fish, souffles, omelettes, pasta, and rice.

Flavorful Italian white truffle oil for recipes is available for about $30 for 8.5 oz.

When stored with eggs, the flavor and aroma penetrate the shells. Rice will also pick up the flavor.

The truffle season begins in September, so order early if you want to enjoy this coveted ingredient.

Simple truffle butter

The aroma and flavor of truffles are heat sensitive. Truffle butter is a good way to get the most from your aromatic gem, since it is not heated.

Finely grate a fresh truffle and add it to softened unsalted butter to suit your taste. Use enough butter so the mixture is spreadable, not crumbly.

Let stand at room temperature for an hour. Spread on crackers, French bread, or baked potatoes. Make extra for later — truffle butter freezes well.